Ahmedabad New York
Life in NYC

The Great L Train Heat-Wave Meltdown of This August

97 degrees, a stalled train under the East River, and the community of the sweating

Dispatch from First Avenue L stop, Lower East Side

It hit 97 degrees this week and the city did what it always does in a heat wave, which is behave like it has personally never encountered summer before.

I was on the L train heading from Bedford back into Manhattan when it stalled. Under the East River. In the tunnel. With the AC making a sound like it was filing its resignation.

Here is what you learn about people in a stalled L train during a heat wave: the masks come off. Not literally. Spiritually.

The finance guy stopped pretending to read Sapiens. A woman in full bridal glam — full lehenga situation, henna and everything, clearly headed somewhere important — started fanning herself with a printout of directions and muttering in Punjabi that made me want to hug her. A teenager offered around a warm bag of Takis like it was communion.

We were down there maybe twelve minutes. It felt like a season. The heat wave had reduced us all to the same wet, honest, complaining animal, and honestly? Nicest strangers had been to each other all summer.

Someone said, "This is why I moved here for." Sarcastic. We all laughed with the specific delirium of the overheated.

The thing about a New York heat wave is it's a great equalizer. The L train doesn't care about your rent or your job title. Under the river, everyone's mascara runs the same. The bride and the finance guy and me, sweating through a linen shirt I'd chosen precisely to avoid this outcome. Fashion humbles you daily.

We finally lurched into First Avenue. The doors opened onto a platform that was somehow hotter than the train, which felt like a betrayal. The bride wished everyone luck. The Takis teenager vanished into the crowd, a hero unnamed.

I walked up into the LES blinking like a mole, bought a mango lassi from the deli on Houston, and pressed the cold cup to my neck the whole walk home.

Summer in this city is a full-contact sport. Hydrate and forgive everyone.

Love,

Pooja
Next in the diary →

The 6 Train at 7am and My Mother's Voice Note

Stay tuned

Wherever the universe
takes me next.